There was a time when having a tan was a status symbol; only the most affluent could afford to take time off from work and travel to exotic locations to achieve a golden brown glow. But as times changed and traveling became less of a luxury and more of a summer standard, and as teens and young adults were increasingly hitting the tanning beds, a golden skin tone became more of a commodity. That is, until consumers started noticing the consequences of their sunning sins.

With the Skin Cancer Foundation reporting that there are more than 1.3 million skin cancers diagnosed in the U.S. alone each year, consumers are beginning to finally understand that lying on the beach or at the pool sans sunscreen can cause serious long term damage. But what about the normal day-to-day sun exposure? Though being outside for an hour or two here and there seems harmless, the minutes add up over the course of a lifetime. And with fewer than 33% of adults, adolescents and children currently using sun protection regularly, the staggering number of skin cancer cases continues to soar.

These health concerns have created a demand for daily sun protection, but for some, the thought of slapping on a thick, white, and oftentimes greasy sunscreen every day has consumers opting to take their chances with skin cancer. That’s why skin care companies are looking for new ways to incorporate SPF into products such as facial moisturizers, lip balms and under eye creams that not only help prevent skin cancer and premature aging, but are lightweight, pleasant to use and contain ingredients to help repair past skin damage.

Fewer Signs of Aging

Francine Porter, president and founder, Osmotics Cosmeceuticals, Denver, CO, told Happi that wearing some form of sun protection every day is the most important step toward preventing aging skin. And since most consumers aren’t too keen on the idea of using a thick sunscreen daily, the company developed Age Prevention Protection Extreme SPF 40, an anti-aging daily cream that visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles while providing protection against future damage. The formula utilizes a powerful new natural polysaccharide, galactoarabinan, which helps increase the energy in cells and allows the skin to repair, renew and revitalize itself, while protecting against free radicals. Hyaluronic acid acts as a natural moisturizer with water-binding capabilities and micronized zinc oxide provides SPF 40 sun protection all in a lightweight, oil-free formula that is pleasant to apply.

“We are all exposed to UV radiation every day doing normal daily activities,” said Ms. Porter. “This exposure adds up to a cumulative effect, which over a period of time ages the skin. Obviously we need to protect our skin at the beach or pool, but it’s the daily exposure that really adds up.”

Ms. Porter added that no one should leave the house without first applying a product containing at least an SPF of 15 to all exposed parts of the body, including face, neck, hands and arms. To meet this demand, Osmotics Cosmeceuticals will soon launch a daily body lotion and hand treatment, both containing SPF.

Institut’ Dermed is a lightweight cream
Institut’ Dermed Sun Protective Cream is a lightweight, oil free moisturizer for normal to oily skin types and is available with an SPF of 15 or 25. It moisturizes and protects against solar-induced free radical reactions that are leading causes of skin discoloration and premature aging.

According to Lyn Ross, founder of Institut’ Dermed, the daily sun protection market is poised for rapid growth. “When people are in their teens and 20s there’s a perception that they are invincible to sun damage. In their 30s and 40s they realize the importance of using an SPF every day to prevent lines, spots and rosacea.”

Reversing the Past

Aveda’s Tourmaline Charged Protecting lotion with SPF 15 offers a triple protection system of antioxidants, moisturizers and SPF to shield skin from environmental aggressors while maintaining its natural moisture barrier. Antioxidants such as vitamins E, C and lycopene help strengthen skin and beta-carotene enhances cell turnover, helping to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The formula utilizes finely powdered tourmaline, which is billed as “a naturally energizing mineral that adds life and radiance to skin.”

Most women now consider a moisturizer with some level of SPF protection an essential component of any skin care regimen according to the marketing department at Aveda. And this market is growing fast.

Younger people are becoming more proactive in taking care of their skin at an earlier age, and in doing so, they regularly use products with sun protection to prevent premature aging. And older people who may have exposed themselves to the sun do not want to incur any additional sun damage according to an Aveda spokesperson.

Debbie D’Aquino, vice president of Global Treatment Product Development for Clinique, agrees that more consumers at a younger age are beginning to become concerned with keeping their skin healthy and minimizing premature skin aging. “We are exposed to UV rays all day long––through our office windows, car windows––that can add up to an incredible amount of sun exposure, which leads to premature aging,” explained Ms. D’Aquino.

Clinique’s Superdefense Triple Action Moisturizer SPF 25 goes above and beyond simply protecting skin from UV rays; it supports skin’s natural defense system, fights free radicals with a powerful grade of antioxidants and provides optimal moisturization. “Since UV rays deplete skin of needed moisture, a good moisturizer is key,” added Ms. D’Aquino. Superdefense is available in three formulas: normal to dry, normal to oily and very dry, so every skin type can get the sun protection it needs.

Avon debuted three new products containing SPF this past year which aim to reduce the signs of past skin damage while protecting it from accruing any additional damage. “Modern day lifestyles have resulted in a marked increase in our outdoor activities,” observed Anthony D. Gonzalez, manager of sun and skin care global research and development for Avon.

Products such as Avon’s Anew Alternative Intensive Age Treatment SPF 25 Day, which became available in January, fuses eastern plant therapies with western technology to help fight and reverse visible signs of aging. Based on clinical tests, 94% of women showed an improvement in overall skin damage. The product not only helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but also renews firmness and elasticity.

Anew Alternative Photo-Radiance Treatment SPF 15 UVA/UVB, which has been available through Avon representatives since June, not only helps reverse sun damage you can see, but also the damage you can’t with a triple targeted approach of licorice extract (to reduce production of melanin), glycolic acid (to even skin tone) and TDPA, an ingredient patented by Avon to inhibit and break skin glycation, a process that causes dull, uneven skin. Healing herbs such as melia azadirachta flower extract to help minimize skin’s pigment-making response to irritation and perilla leaf extract helps prevent excess pigment storage to further reduce damage and uneven skin tone, while broad-spectrum SPF 15 blocks UVA and UVB rays.

Ageless Results Renewing Day Cream SPF 15 contains broad-spectrum sunscreen to fend off UV exposure and is formulated with Avon Daily Skin Allowance, a combination of nutrients and supplements to help maximize the healthy look of skin. Included are peptides to help firm and reduce wrinkles, vitamin antioxidants to prevent premature aging and soy to stimulate cellular repair. Ageless day cream has been available since July.

Personalizing SPF

At one time, SPF protection was a one-size-fits-all proposition, but with skin care companies increasingly segmenting and specializing products, there is a skin care formula containing some level of SPF for just about any skin type out there.

New Solar Defense is aimed at protecting specific skin types.

Dermalogica recently launched its Solar Defense system; a line of three products for the face and one for the body that are targeted to specific skin types and offer personalized protection. Each of the products contain the company’s UV Smart Booster Technology, a customized microcapsule that safeguards active vitamins and bursts open on contact with UV rays, to release an active ingredient complex of vitamins C and E for free radical protection.

Oil-free matte block is a mattefier made for oily or acne prone skin types and features microsponge technology to absorb and control oil, maintaining an all-day matte finish. Green tea also helps calm inflammation caused by breakouts and SPF 20 shields skin from the sun’s rays. Super sensitive faceblock boasts SPF 30 to protect against UV exposure while lavender, green tea and licorice soothe irritation associated with highly sensitive skin. Extra rich faceblock with SPF 30 contains an exclusive skin smoothing complex to retexturize skin while peptides help stimulate collagen production and evening primrose replenishes and maintains skin’s natural moisture levels. Multivitamin bodyblock is a nourishing body moisturizer that hydrates with hyaluronic acid, shea butter and evening primrose oil, all while fighting UV exposure with SPF 20.

“Clients want a product that not only protects them from UV rays, but feels good and actually helps treat and improve the condition of skin,” explained Heather Hickam, regional education manager for the International Dermal Institute, Dermalogica. “Due to this demand, there has been a trend of formulating sun protection into beneficial skin products. When clients are able to get this type of product––one that blocks the sun and treats the skin––skin cancer statistics may not be so likely to increase in the future.”

Including some level of SPF in skin care products is gaining so much momentum that companies are even going so far as to reformulate existing products so that consumers can still use a product they know and love as they start a daily sun protection regimen. Valeant Pharmaceuticals’ Kinerase cream and lotion were both relaunched in May with SPF 30. Both formulas contain titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate to protect skin from UVA and UVB rays and prevent premature aging and hyperpigmentation.

Often Neglected Areas Need Protection

By now most consumers know that protecting the face and body from sun exposure is crucial to prevent skin cancer, fine lines and wrinkles. However, a market is quickly growing to protect often neglected parts of the face, such as under eyes and lips. The skin in these areas is thinner than others, and is a prime target for overexposure, which is why skin care companies are becoming more savvy and developing products for the eyes and lips that feature beneficial properties such as moisturizing and reducing lines, all in a formula with an SPF to protect these delicate areas.

In fact, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation, skin cancer on the upper and lower eyelid is one of the most common areas on the face for skin cancer to crop up, with eyelid cancers accounting for 10% of all skin cancer deaths. The foundation recommends wearing an SPF of 15 or greater on the eyelid and under the eyes
for prevention.

Anew Perfect Eye Care Cream from Avon is a light cream formula that features a time-released liposome system of alpha hydroxy acid and optical diffusers that help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The formula also boasts a 50% increase in moisture level, all while SPF 15 protects from future sun damage.

Neutrogena Healthy Defense Daily Eye Cream provides SPF 30 broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection to protect the eye area from daily damage while plumping existing fine lines. An antioxidant blend with vitamin E shields the eye area from environmental damage, while a hint of color gives an immediate glow and helps diffuse dark circles.

A Kiss of Protection

The lips are another often-neglected area that is very susceptible to sunburn. Women are oftentimes hesitant to use an SPF-infused lip balm because they don’t want to sacrifice color for protection. Aveda’s lip tint is a botanical lip conditioner that features the company’s patented berry/lipid moisture complex, a blend of organically grown bilberry, blueberry, cranberry and algae extract combined with moisturizing plant lipids to provide protection from environmental stressors while replenishing moisture and conditioning lips with the benefit of SPF 15.

Lip tint comes in seven conditioning shades, so women no longer have to choose between protecting their lips or coloring them. Aveda’s lip color sheer and lip color concentrate feature the same SPF 15 protection and berry/lipid moisturizing complex but offer more color choices. In November Aveda will launch a lip tint swirl, which blends color and shimmer in one, without sacrificing SPF 15 protection.

Softlips, St. Catherines, ON, Canada, expanded its lip conditioning balm line last month. Raspberry with Green Tea, like all of Softlips’ formulas, is a light, moisturizing lip conditioner with SPF 20. It’s also the first lip protectant of its kind to include green tea, evening primrose oil and pomegranate extract to help provide natural antioxidant protection, maintain soft and smooth lips and promote lip repair.

Neutrogena debuted Moisture-Shine Lip Soother with SPF 20 this year to protect lips while providing soothing relief on contact with a high gloss shine. The hydragel formula contains conditioning botanicals and glycerin for moisturization and comes in six glossy shades.

A Masculine Approach

With men’s grooming products becoming increasingly popular, it’s clear that men are more concerned with preserving their youth.

Neutrogena Men Triple Protect Face lotion is a non-greasy facial moisturizer that heals dryness and soothes razor irritation with an SPF 20 to help defend against the signs of aging in one step. It also reduces the appearance of fine lines and smoothes rough texture.

Neutrogena’s Age Fighter Face moisturizer is an effective daily moisturizer that features retinol, the purest form of vitamin A, to give men smoother and younger-looking skin. Non-greasy moisturizers and conditioning multivitamins help repair skin while SPF 15 prevents any future sun damage.

Nivea for Men has a fairly extensive line of male grooming products from basic facial moisturizers with SPF to more sophisticated formulas and eye creams.

Nivea for Men’s Extra Soothing lotion contains no fragrance, dye or alcohol and is formulated with chamomile and licorice extract to help soothe sensitive skin. SPF 4 and vitamin E help protect against premature aging and skin irritations from UV exposure.

For a little more sun protection, or when skin will be exposed to the sun for longer periods of time, Nivea offers Protective lotion for men with an SPF 15. It’s a light, easily-absorbed lotion that protects against incidental sun exposure and moisturizes to keep skin smooth and healthy looking.

Advanced anti-aging lotions are no longer just for women. Nivea realized that men also want sun protection and ingredients that will help keep skin healthy. Revitalizing Lotion Q10 moisturizes and protects tired, stressed skin, while the one-two punch of SPF 15 and vitamin E shield skin from UV rays.

With many companies incorporating some form of sun protection into an array of products from moisturizers to eye creams to lip balms, it’s now easier than ever to get started on a daily regimen to not only prevent skin damage and skin cancer, but also repair skin damaged from years of exposure.

HAPPI Sept 2006